Monday, February 10, 2014

Loving Windy Welly

Let’s talk about Wellington. Does that sound good?

Up until about a year ago Wellington was the only new Zealand city I’d heard of. Well, maybe I vaguely knew about Queenstown, but I wouldn’t be able to spot it on a map.

Why did I know about Wellington? It’s where Peter Jackson, director of Lord of the Rings, has his movie studios based. Yep. Once again, Lord of the Rings is my informer about New Zealand.

But. So. Anyway. Wellington.

I found myself en route to Wellington towards the end of my North Island travel. I’d been on the road for nearly a week, and was looking forward to getting to Dunedin so that I could stay in one place for two weeks, fully unpack and sprawl in a space of my own. But first I had about 48 hours in Wellington. I was looking forward to it, although I had no idea what I’d do once I got there.

My bus pulled into Wellington around 8:30, though it was still light out, the sky was overcast and there was a persistent almost raining feeling. It felt like a full on storm might break our at any moment. So I made a beeline to my hostel, walking with a German I’d sat next to on the bus. (He’d just finished studying economics in university, and took 8 months to travel before going back to do his masters).

I spent the night trying to decide what I’d to the next day. Rather quickly, I found two things that I absolutely had to do. One was visit this super cool-looking Eco sanctuary called Zealandia. The other was to go on a Lord of the Rings locations tour. (You’re all shocked, right?)

The next morning I got up a little early to get to the tourism information center when it opened in order to book my tour. There was a spot in the afternoon tour, so I did a little dance and then wandered around the wonderful, amazing, clever pedestrian walk around the harbor before catching a shuttle to Zealandia.
Sight of the harbour

For now, I’ll just tell you that my visit at Zealandia, although short, was absolutely amazing. I will write something longer about it. I promise. Zealandia needs its own post. Inspired and invigorated, I took the shuttle back to the center of Wellington, bought a hot dog from a cool little street stand for my lunch and waited for my Lord of the Rings tour to start.

I only joined in on the second half of the tour, so I missed going to some places—locations for Isengard, Helm’s Deep, and Rivendell, but I still got to see some really cool things. First on the list was exploring Mt. Victoria, a rather large hill just beside Wellington, where a lot of filming of the four hobbits leaving the Shire was done. We had a good old time, recreating some of the scenes.

Some awesome strangers and me recreating a scene--try and guess which one!
Then we went over to the side of town where all the filming studios are. That was cool. If you weren’t told about them, you’d never expect what the nondescript warehouses contained—rooms and rooms of high tech equipment, sets, and storage.

Then we went to what’s known as the Weta Cave, which is a little mini museum (read: big souvenir shop) that Weta set up. (Weta has worked with Peter Jackson on all the LOTR films—they are the guys who do a lot of the props/designs/costumes/prosthetics stuff) and then we got a tour of a little corner of the Weta Workshop itself.

A stranger recreating a scene with me. 
Imagine stepping into a big room packed to the brim with old stuff used in movies—swords, shields, guns, costumes, cars, bizarre animals, model castles. Some things, like the costume of the Witch King of Angmare, you’ve only dreamed of. Other things are from movies you’ve never seen.

The guide who led us around this little corner of her job was originally from California, having moved to NZ after applying for and getting a job at Weta. Her job interview pretty much consisted of helping the head of Weta do a full body cast of a goblin for a day. Afterwords he told her that there was a job at Weta for her if she wanted it.

It goes without saying that I’m supremely jealous of her job.

She took us through a little path of the space, talking us through the process for creating a prop. We looked through a window at the guy who makes all the swords (the actual, real, could kill someone swords) and at a machine another guy had made out of parts he’d found that basically works as something like a 3D printer.

Me holding an actual elvish sword.
It was wonderful. And also a big breath of inspiration.

That was the end of the tour. So I found myself back in Wellington and had a wander around the famous museum there Te Papa, before getting some dinner.

Then next morning I spent wandering around the beautiful harbor, walking and picnic lunching away the morning before having to catch my plane to Dunedin.

Of the people I’ve talked to, Wellington has got mixed reviews. Some people love it to bits. Others find it a little too quiet, a little too boring for their tastes. Each to their own, I guess. I think I could have spent another day or two or ten there.


My picnic spot. 

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